Method for the manufacture and pocket{3 s assembling

ABSTRACT

Manufacture and assembly of pockets in garments are carried out by means of patterns which comprise a base plate provided with clamping means for the retention of the cloth pieces to be sewed in the formation of the pocket. The pattern includes guide means the profile of which corresponds with the design of the seam to be formed, and the pieces of cloth retained on the pattern are guided under the needle of a conventional sewing machine by contacting the guide means of the pattern against the side of the presser foot of the sewing machine.

United States Patent 1191 Castany Ferr et a1.

[ Mar. 11,1975

[ METHOD FOR THE MANUFACTURE AND POCKETS ASSEMBLING [76] Inventors: Jos Castany Ferr, Calle Borrell, No. 122; Ramn Sanrama Padr, Calle Vilamari, No. 57, both of Barcelona, Spain 22 Filed: Feb. 5, 1973 121 Appl. No.: 329,421

[30] Foreign Application Priority Data Feb. 5, 1972 Spain 177178 2,826,158 3/1958 Phillips 112/121.15 3,034,458 5/1962 Bennison 112/121.12 3,105,973 10/1963 Sticfelmeier.... 112/65 X 3,335,682 8/1967 Tucci l12/l21.15 3,543,737 12/1970 Maschmann.... 1l2/12l.12 3,680,508 8/1972 Baig et a1 112/12l.12

FOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS 718,783 11/1966 Italy 112/65 Primary ExaminerWerner H. Schroeder Attorney, Agent, or Firm-Wenderoth, Lind & Ponack [5 7] ABSTRACT Manufacture and assembly of pockets in garments are carried out by means of patterns which comprise a base plate provided with clamping means for the retention of the cloth pieces to be sewed in the formation of the pocket. The pattern includes guide means the profile of which corresponds with the design of the seam to be formed, and the pieces of cloth retained on the pattern are guided under the needle of a conventional sewing machine by contacting the guide means of the pattern against the side of the presser foot of the sewing machine.

12 Claims, 29 Drawing Figures PATENTEBHAR I 1 I975 sum 2 or 9 PATENTEDHAR 1 1 1915 SHEET 3 OF 9 SHEET 8 [IF 9 fill IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII 111v! 11111111111111, I I771 1 METHOD FOR THE MANUFACTURE AND POCKETS ASSEMBLING BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION This invention relates to the manufacture and assembly of garment pockets.

In the ready-made garment industry, the preparation and assembly of the pockets in the garments which are being manufactured has a special importance. In forming a pocket, an opening must be made in the corresponding place in the garment, the necessary pinched tucks must be placed and sewn at the edges of such opening, a pocket flap must be sewn inside the upper edge of such opening, the pocket flap being previously manufactured and provided with the corresponding pocket lining, and to both edges in the opening must be sewn the piece of cloth to form the pocket lining.

The correct performance of this series of operations requires a high degree of attention and care, and therefore in general must be made by specialized workers. Even so, these operations take relatively great time, therefore increasing the cost of the garment.

Several types of machines for the manufacture of pockets have been proposed, which, although solving some aspects of the problem, are not entirely satisfactory, since they do not perform in general all the operations of pocket assembly, and since the cost of such machines is so high as to result in no profit in the readymade garment industry involving moderate or low production.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to the assembly of pockets in garments by means of known sewing machines with the help of simple auxiliary elements which are economical and nevertheless allow a high rapidity in the assembling operation, thereby increasing the production yield in comparison with that obtained with the mentioned high priced machines.

According to the invention, the several pieces of cloth for the making of a pocket are held down on a pattern provided with clamping means, and the pattern and the pieces of cloth are carried to a known sewing machine which carries out the various necessary sewing operations on the pieces of cloth while the pattern and pieces of cloth are guided under the sewing machine needle by means of a guide and stop provided in the pattern and a cooperating presser foot of the sewing machine.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS The invention is described in detail below with respect to the accompanying drawings, where:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of an example of the outside appearance of the type of pocket which may be obtained according to the invention;

FIG. 2 is an enlarged linear section of the pocket in FIG. 1;

FIGS. 3, 4 and 5 are perspective views of three kinds of patterns which may be used according to the invention to make a pocket flap, such as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, by means of a known sewing machine;

FIGS. 6, 7 and 8 are cross section views showing the way to use the patterns in FIGS. 3, 4 and 5, respectivel FIGS. 9, 10, 11 and 12 illustrate different types of presser foots which may be used with a known sewing machine to make and assemble pockets according to the invention;

FIG. 13 is a perspective view ofa pattern to assemble pockets on a garment, by means ofa known sewing machine according to the invention;

FIGS. 14, l5, I6, 17 and 18 are perspective views of modifications of the pattern in FIG. 13;

FIGS. 19, 20, 21 and 22 are section views illustrating consecutive stages of the assembling of the pocket shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 by means of a pattern similar to that in FIG. 13;

FIGS. 23, 24, 25 and 26 are section views illustrating the stages of the assembling of a chest pocket, with the pattern of FIG. 13; and

FIGS. 27, 28 and 29 are section views illustrating consecutive stages of the assembling of a pocket provided with a zipper fastener by means of a pattern similar to that in FIG. 18.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION By means of the present invention, the several types of pockets usually employed in different garments, such as coats, jackets, overcoats, etc., may be formed and mounted. FIGS. 1 and 2 exemplary illustrate a pocket provided with flap 1 covering the pocket opening 2 made in the cloth 3 of the garment concerned, and having at the edges of opening 2 the respective pinched tucks or bindings 4 and 5 sewn internally and on which are sewn the piece or pieces 6 of cloth which form the pocket lining.

According to the invention, for the assembling of all these cloth pieces forming the pocket, as well as for the formation of the flap 1 or other equivalent pieces, a known sewing machine is used. The cloth pieces to be sewn to each other are superimposed and clamped on a pattern provided with guide means which contacts the presser foot of the sewing machine as the pattern and cloth pieces are moved under the needles to determine the motion of the cloth pieces.

To make the flap 1 of the pocket, a pattern such as that shown in FIG. 3 may be used and including a rigid base plate 7 with contour and dimensions corresponding to those of the flap l. Pivotally connected to an edge of base plate 7 corresponding to the inner edge of the flap is a second plate 8 of the same shape and size which may be moved into superimposed position on plage 7. Between plates 7 and 8 the cloth piece 1 of the flap and the cloth 9 constituting the inner lining are superimposed and clamped. Preferably, to insure the positioning of the mentioned'cloth pieces 1 and 9 in such a way they cannot move with respect to each other and to the pattern, the inside face of both plates 7 and 8 may be provided with antislip surfaces, which may be obtained, for example, by adhering on the mentioned plates abrasive sheets 10 and 11.

The cloth pieces 1 and 9 clamped between plates 7 and 8 are then moved under the needle 12 of a known sewing machine where cloth pieces 1 and 9 are sewn to each other. The pattern and cloth pieces are moved with the pattern edge of the pattern 7 and 8 contacting the side of the presser foot 13 of the sewing machine, in such a way that the sewing of the cloth pieces is performed around the pattern and at a distance from its edge corresponding to one half of the width of the presser foot 13.

As shown in FIG. 4, the upper plate 8 of the pattern may be replaced by a simple narrow frame 14 with an outer contour coinciding with the contour of the base plate 7, frame 14 also being provided with an abrasive sheet on its lower face, but in this case the abrasive surface 16 of the base plate 7 is applied to its lower face, and base plate 7 is placed on top of the cloth piece 1 of the flap, while the cloth piece 9 of the lining is placed on the plate 7 and clamped thereto by means of the frame 14. Such a disposition makes it possible to position the lining 9 somewhat loosely with respect to the piece 1 of the flap, thus allowing somewhat more control of the making of the flap 1.

In order that the sewing line be situated closer to the edge of the plates 14 and 7 of the pattern, the normal presser foot 13 may be replaced in the sewing machine by a presser foot 17, such as shown in FIG. 9, and which has on its lower face immediately adjacent to the slot 18 for the needle 12 a downwardly depending flange 19 with a height slightly less than that of the plates 14 and 7 of the pattern. The lower surface of presser foot 17 is applied on top of the frame 14 of the pattern, with flange 19 acting as a guide against the edge of frame 14 of the pattern, as shown in FIG. 7. In this way it is possible to avoid direct contact of the presser foot on the cloth pieces 9 and 1, contrary to the arrangement shown in FIG. 6, which may produce slight relative slipping between the cloth pieces and thus producing wrinkles.

It is also possible to use a presser foot 20, such as the one represented in FIGS. 10 and 11, which is similar to the presser foot 13 represented in FIG. 6, but which has in its lower face a boss 21 which is also used as a stop element against the edge of the pattern. It will be understood that with presser foot the stitching line will be situated at a distance from the edge of the pattern intermediate to the distances obtained by using the presser feet 13 and 17.

In FIG. 5 is shown a further modification of a pattern for the manufacture of the flap 1, and which has a base plate 7 pivotally connected to a frame 22. But frame 22 is of greater size than the plate 7, in such a way that between the edge of plate 7 and the inner edge of the frame 22 there is a free space 23. The cloth pieces 1 and 9 of the flap are placed on the base plate 7 where they are clamped by means of a clamp 24 operated by means of a spring 25. Both the upper face of the plate 7 and the lower face of clamp 24 are provided with corresponding abrasive surfaces 26. On the portion of the cloth pieces 1 and 9 extending outwardly from the edge of the plate 7 is moved the frame 22, and the inner edge of this frame is used as a guide element in contact with the presser foot of the sewing machine.

With this pattern is advantageously used a presser foot 27 represented in perspective in FIG. 12 and which includes a small tube 28 slightly conic in shape and having thereabove a collar 29 and along the axis on which moves the needle 12 of the sewing machine. The collar 29 is placed on top of the frame 22 of the pattern, while the lower tube 28 contacts the inner edge of the frame 22 to guide the pattern.

To assemble the pocket in the garment 3, a pattern essentially as represented in FIG. 13 is used, and which includes a rigid base plate 30 with suitable dimensions and thickness, having in the mid portion thereof a longitudinal slot 31, the length of which is slightly greater than that of the opening 2 of the pocket and the width of which is greater than the distance between the stitches of the two pinched tucks 4 and 5 of the edges of the opening of the pocket.

On opposite longitudinal edges of the slot 31 there are pairs of prickles or spikes 32, 33 and 34, 35 extending upwardly from the surface of the plate 30 and situated close to the respective longitudinal edges of the slot 31. Near the lateral edges of the plate 30 there are pivotally mounted shafts 36 and 37 parallel to the slot 31 and which respectively carry plates 38 and 39 which may be moved into contact with plate 30 in such a way that the free longitudinal edges thereof are situated at a distance from or coinciding with the respective longitudinal edges of the slot 31.

To assembly a pocket such as that shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 by means of this pattern, the plate 30 is placed on the outer face of the cloth 3 of the garment, in such a way that the slot 31 coincides with the desired position of the opening 2 of the pocket. Into the slot 31 of the pattern, close to one of the edges thereof, is placed a cloth strip, longitudinally doubled to form the pinched tuck 5 of the lower edge of the pocket. The cloth of tuck 5 is clamped at its opposite edges to the pattern by means of the prickles 32 and 34. Over pinched tuck 5 is placed one of the cloth pieces 6 to form the pocket lining. Thereafter, the pinched tuck 5 and the lining 6 are sewn to the cloth 3 of the garment, while contacting the edge of the slot 31 or of the plate 38 against the side of the presser foot 13, as schematically represented in FIG. 19. The length of this stitch is limited by contact of presser foot 13 against the outer terminals of the slot 31 of the plate.

Then, while, the edges of the pinched tuck 5 and the lining are retained in place .by means of the pivoted plate 38 in order to free the opposite side of the slot 31 of the plate 30, a second doubled strip of cloth is placed adjacent this opposite side of the slot, thus forming the pinched tuck 4 of the upper edge of the pocket. The cloth of tuck 4 is clamped. in place in a similar manner by means of the prickles 33 and 35. The previously formed flap 1 of the pocket is placed on the pinched tuck 4, and on it is placed the other cloth 6 of the pocket lining as shown in FIG. 20. All of these pieces are then sewn to the cloth 3 of the garment, as shown in FIG. 21, while contacting the edge of the corresponding side of the slot 31 against the corresponding side of the presser foot 13. Thereafter a cut is made in the cloth 3 along the middle line of the slot 31 of the plate 30 to form the opening 2 of the pocket. The thus sewn cloth pieces are then turned inwardly through the opening 2 of the cloth 3 and both pieces 6 of the pocket lining are sewn together to form the pocket shown in FIG. 2.

In a similar manner may be assembled a pocket without a flap, for example, a chest pocket such as those used in coats including a fix layer in the lower edge of the opening. In such a case, as schematically shown in FIGS. 23, 24, 25 and 26, the plate base 30 of the pattern is placed on garment 3 in such a way that its slot 31 coincides with the desired location of the opening 2 of the pocket. On one of the sides of the slot 31 is placed the cloth piece 6 of the pocket lining to bejoined to the upper edge of the pocket opening, and this piece 6 is stitched to the cloth 3 in a similar manner to that previously described. Then on the opposite side of the slot 31 is placed the fix flap 40 of the pocket and on it the cloth piece 6 of the lining which should be joined to the lower edge of the opening. Both of these pieces are sewn to the cloth 3 of the garment as shown in FIG. 25, and thereafter the cut to form opening 2 is made, and the sewn pieces are passed through opening 2 to form the pocket represented in FIG. 26.

To make easier the cutting operation to form opening 2 of the pocket, there may be provided on the base plate 30 of the pattern, along the middle line of the slot 31, a thin bar 41 serving as a guide to a blade which may perform the cutting operation.

The different elements comprising the described pattern may be modified in several ways as represented in FIGS. l5, l6, l7 and 18.

Thus, the mentioned bar 41, serving as a guide for the blade, and which in FIG. 14 is fixed, may be adjustable as shown in FIG. 16, where it is formed by a bar 42 provided at its ends with both openings 43 which receive screw-threaded studs 44 extending upwardly from the base plate 30, and are clamped thereto by means of nuts 45.

To facilitate access to the cloth pieces of the lining 6 when they are to be retained by the pivoted plates 38 and 39, such plates may be in the form of frames having a C shape, a rectangular C shape, such as shown by 46, 47, 48 and 49 in FIGS. 15, 16, 17 and 18, which frames are pivoted at the ends of their lateral branches to flanges 50 placed at the edges of the base plate 30 of the pattern, in such a way that the outer edge of the central branch of each frame, when moved onto the base plate 30, coincides with the edge of the corresponding side of the slot 31, as shown in FIGS. 15, 16 and 17, or in such a way that the inner edge of the central branch extends past the edge of the corresponding side of the slot 31, there being a space between such edges as in frames 49 shown in FIG. 18. Also, only one frame may be provided, the central branch of which may be situated on the middle line of the slot 31, in such a way that its two edges are equidistant from the two longitudinal edges of the mentioned slot 31.

The prickles 32, 33, 34 and 35 which, as previously indicated are to position the ends of the cloth strips to form the pinched tucks 4 and 5, may be replaced by another clamping means for example, by pairs of elastic clamps 51, or by means of adhesive layers 52 placed on the plate 30 adjacent the ends of the slot 31.

The mentioned prickles or another clamping means may be advantageously placed on supporting plates 53 adjustably mounted on the plate 30 by means of a screw 54 passing through an elongated hole 55 of the plates 53. Such plate 53 may also constitute an ajustable stop to adjust the length of the stitches in place of the fixed stops formed by the terminal edges of the slot 31. Also, at the lower face of the outer end of the plates 53, other spikes or prickles 56 may extend downwardly, in order to suitably grasp the cloth 3 of the garment in order to avoid any possible slipping between cloth 3 and the pattern.

With these patterns a normal presser foot 13 may be used which is contacted by the edges of the slot 31, as shown in FIG. 21. Alternatively, on the upper face of frames 46, 47, 48, and 49 may be placed a longitudinal strip serving as a guide 57 to contact the side of the normal presser foot 13, which is placed on the upper face of the frame, as shown in FIGS. 23, 24 and 25, and in FIGS. 27 and 28. In the same manner, the presser foot may be provided with a lower stop, similar to presser feet 17 and of FIGS. 9 and 10.

In these latter cases, where the presser foot is placed on the upper face of the frames, the stops to limit the length of the stitches may consist of protuberances 58 formed at the ends of the frames 46 and 47 of FIGS. 15 and 16, or may be adjustable portions of frames 48 in FIG. 17, formed by small plates 59 provided with an elongated hole 60 and clamped by means of a screw 61 on the ends of frames 48.

The adjustable stops formed by plates 59, adjustable on frames 48 are specially useful in the assembly of the chest pockets which has been described in connection with FIGS. 23, 24, 25 and 26 when the opening of such a pocket is slanted or wide and therefore, there should be a longitudinal displacement between the stitch in the upper edge and the stitch at the lower edge of the pocket.

In one of the sides of the base plate 30 of the pattern a flange 62 may be placed to serve as a stop for the positioning of the flap 1 or of another piece of the pocket, which flange 62 may be fixed as in the example in FIG. 17, or may be of adjustable position as in FIG. 18, wherein it is provided with lateral arms 63 which by means of elongated holes 64 and nuts 65 are fixed to the plate 30 in a suitable position, according to the dimensions of the flap l.

The plate 30 may also carry, at one or both sides thereof clamps to clamp the cloth pieces which are to be sewn, and which may act by their own weight as clamp 66 in FIG. 18, or may be provided with a spring for operation as clamp 67 in FIG. 17 and clamp 68 in FIG. 18. In the example of FIG. 18, the clamp 68 is also mounted solidly on the edge of the stop 62 in such a way that its position may be regulated along with the position of stop 62.

Besides the prickles 56 shown in FIG. 18, slipping of the pattern on the cloth 3 of the garment may be prevented by placing on the lower face of the base plate 30 an anti-slip surface such as a covering of an abrasive sheet 69, and in a similar way abrasive sheets 70 may be placed on the lower faces of frames 46, 47, 48 and 49, and also on the lower face of clamps 66, 67, 68 and in those zones of the upper surface of plate 30 against which such clamps will act to secure the cloth pieces.

The disposition of the pattern of FIG. 18 in which the central branches of frames 49 extend past the respective edges of the slot 31 is useful in the assembly of pockets provided with a zipper fastener, as shown schematically in FIGS. 27, 28 and 29. Therefore, on one of the sides of the slot 31 of the base plate 30 is positioned the pinched tuck 4, and thereover is placed one of the strips 71 of the zipper fastener with the row of clamps 72 thereof extending towards the outside of the slot 31. Thereover is placed the cloth 6 of the lining of strip 71.

Then, the frame 49 from the corresponding side of the plate 30 is moved to hold down the cloth pieces at their outer edges. Thereafter, the cloth pieces are sewn to the cloth 3 of the garment along the space between the inner edge of the central branch of the frame 49 and the longitudinal edge of the same side of the slot 31 of the plate 30, as shown in FIG. 27. Then, and as shown in FIG. 28, the operation of sewing the pinched tuck 5, the strip 71 and the lining 6 of the opposite edge of the pocket is performed using the frame 49 of the opposite side of the plate. After cutting the opening 2, as in previous cases, the mentioned pieces 6, 71 and 5 are passed through the opening to finish the pocket, the

lining pieces 6 being sewn together, as shown in FIG.

We claim:

1. A method for forming and assembling pockets on garments by stitching together superimposed cloth pieces by a known sewing machine, comprising clamping desired cloth pieces in a desired superimposed relationship by means of a clamping pattern having a contour edge portion corresponding to the desired shape of the stitch to be made, and moving said pattern and thus clamped cloth pieces with respect to said sewing machine with the presser foot of said sewing machine in guiding contact with respect to said contour edge portion of said pattern, while simultaneously stitching said clamped cloth pieces by means of the needle of said sewing machine, wherein said cloth pieces include a garment piece, a pair of pinched tuck pieces, a pair of pocket lining pieces and a pocket flap; wherein said pattern includes a base plate having therein a longitudinal slot with a width greater than the distance between the stitches of the two edges of the opening of the desired pocket and with a length greater than the width of the desired pocket, said pattern further including a pair of clamping plates, one each of which is pivotally mounted on opposite sides of said slot about an axis parallel to the longitudinal dimension of said slot; wherein said steps of clamping, moving and stitching comprise:

A. positioning said base plate on said garment piece with said slot aligned with that area of said garment piece wherein the opening of said pocket is desired;

B. placing a first of said pinched tuck pieces on said garment piece adjacent one of the longitudinal edges of said slot;

C. placing a first of said pocket lining pieces on said first pinched tuck piece;

D. pivoting a first of said clamping plates toward said base plate to clamp therebetween a portion of said first pinched tuck piece and said first pocket lining piece;

E. urging said first clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said first pocket lining piece and said first pinched tuck piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a first pocket stitch;

F. placing a second of said pinched tuck pieces on said garment piece adjacent the opposite of said longitudinal edges of said slot;

G. placing said pocket flap on said second pinched tuck piece;

H. placing a second of said pocket lining pieces on said pocket flap;

I. pivoting a second of said clamping plates toward said base plate to clamp therebetween a portion of said second pinched tuck piece, said pocket flap and said second pocket lining piece;

J. urging said second clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said second pocket lining piece, said pocket flap and said second pinched tuck piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a second pocket stitch; and

K. cutting said garment piece between said first and second pocket stitches to form said pocket openmg.

2. A method as claimed in claim 1, further comprising during said steps (B) and (F) clamping the longitudinal ends of said first and second pinched tuck pieces to said base plate.

3. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein said steps (E) and (J) comprise positioning said presser foot on said respective pocket lining pieces, while urging the outer edges of said respective first and second clamping plates against a lateral edge of said presser foot.

4. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein said steps (E) and (J) comprise positioning said presser foot on said respective first and second clamping plates, while urging a guide on theupper surface of said respective first and secnd clamping plates against a lateral edge of said presser foot.

5. A method for forming and assembling pockets on garments by stitching together superimposed cloth pieces by a known sewing machine, comprising clamping desired cloth pieces in a desired superimposed relationship by means of a clamping pattern having a contour edge portion corresponding to the desired shape of the stitch to be made, and moving said pattern and thus clamped cloth pieces with respect to said sewing machine with the presser foot of said sewing machine in guiding contact with respect to said contour edge portion of said pattern, while simultaneously stitching said clamped cloth pieces by means of the needle of said sewing machine, wherein said cloth pieces include a garment piece, first and second pocket lining pieces and a fix flap piece, wherein said pattern includes a base plate having therein a longitudinal slot with a width greater than the distance between the stitches of the two edges of the opening of the desired pocket and with a length greater than the width of the desired pocket, said pattern further including a pair of clamping plates, one each of which is pivotally mounted on opposite sides of said slot about an axis parallel to the longitudinal dimension of said slot; wherein said steps of clamping, moving and stitching comprise:

A. positioning said base plate on said garment piece with said slot aligned with that area of said garment piece wherein the opening of said pocket is desired;

B. placing a first of said pocket lining pieces on said garment piece adjacent one of the longitudinal edges of said slot;

C. pivoting a first of said clamping plates toward said base plate to clamp therebetween a portion of said first pocket lining piece;

D. urging said first clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said first pocket lining piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a first pocket stitch;

E. placing said fix flap piece on said garment piece adjacent the opposite of said longitudinal edges of said slot;

F. placing a second of said pocket lining pieces on said fix flap piece;

G. pivoting a second of said clamping plates toward said base plate to clamp therebetween a portion of said fix flap piece and said second pocket lining piece;

H. urging said second clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said fix flap piece and said second pocket lining piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a second pocket stitch; and

I. cutting said garment piece between said first and second pocket stitches to form said pocket openmg.

6. A method as claimed in claim 5, further comprising during said steps (B) and (E) clamping the longitudinal ends of, respectively, said first pocket lining piece and said fix flap piece to said base plate.

7. A method as claimed in claim 5, wherein said steps (D) and (H) comprise positioning said presser foot on said respective pocket lining pieces, while urging the outer edges of said respective first and second clamping plates against a lateral edge of said presser foot.

8. A method as claimed in claim 5, wherein said steps (D) and (H) comprise positioning said presser foot on said respective first and second clamping plates, while urging a guide on the upper surface of said respective first and second clamping plates against a lateral edge of said presser foot.

9. A method for forming and assembling pockets on garments by stitching together superimposed cloth pieces by a known sewing machine, comprising clamping desired cloth pieces in a desired superimposed relationship by means of a clamping pattern having a contour edge portion corresponding to the desired shape of the stitch to be made, and moving said pattern and thus clamped cloth pieces with respect to said sewing machine with the presser foot of said sewing machine in guiding contact with respect to said contour edge portion of said pattern, while simultaneously stitching said clamped cloth pieces by means of the needle of said sewing machine, wherein said cloth pieces include a garment piece, a first and second pinched tuck pieces, first and second zipper fastener pieces and first and second pocket lining pieces; wherein said pattern includes a base plate having therein a longitudinal slot with a width greater than the distance between the stitches of the two edges of the opening of the desired pocket and with a length greater than the width of the desired pocket, said pattern further including a pair of clamping plates, one each of which is pivotally mounted on opposite sides of said slot about an axis parallel to the longitudinal dimension of said slot; wherein said steps of clamping, moving said stitching comprise:

A. positioning said base plate on said garment piece with said slot aligned with that area of said garment piece wherein the opening of said pocket is desired;

B. placing a first of said pinched tuck pieces on said garment piece adjacent one of the longitudinal edges of said slot and on said longitudinal edge;

C. placing a first of said zipper fastener pieses on said first pinched tuck piece;

D. placing a first of said pocket lining pieces on said 10 first zipper fastener piece;

E. pivoting a first of said clamping plates toward said garment piece to clamp therebetween a portion of said first pinched tuck piece, said first zipper fastener piece and said first pocket lining piece;

F. urging said first clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said first pinched tuck piece, said first zipper fastener piece and said first pocket lining piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a first pocket stitch;

G. placing a second of said pinched tuck pieces on said garment piece adjacent the opposite of said longitudinal edges of said slot and on said opposite longitudinal edge;

H. placing a second of said zipper fastener pieces on said pinched tuck piece;

I. placing a second of said pocket lining pieces on said second zipper fastener piece;

J. pivoting a second of said clamping plates toward said garment piece to clamp therebetween a portion of said second pinched tuck piece, said second zipper fastener piece and said second pocket lining piece;

K. urging said second clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said second pinched tuck piece, said second zipper fastener piece and said second pocket lining piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a second pocket stitch; and

L. cutting said garment piece between said first and second pocket stitches to form said pocket openmg.

10. A method as claimed in claim 9 further comprising during said steps (B) and (G) clamping the longitudinal edges of said first and second pinched tuck pieces to said base plate.

11. A method as claimed in claim 9, wherein said steps (F) and (K) comprise positioning said presser foot on said respective lining pieces, while urging the inner edges of said respective first and second clamping plates against a lateral edge of said presser foot.

12. A method as claimed in claim 9, wherein said steps (F) and (K) comprise positioning said presser foot on said respective first and second clamping plates, while urging a guide on the upper surface of said respective first and second clamping plates against a lateral edge of said presser foot. 

1. A method for forming and assembling pockets on garments by stitching together superimposed cloth pieces by a known sewing machine, comprising clamping desired cloth pieces in a desired superimposed relationship by means of a clamping pattern having a contour edge portion corresponding to the desired shape of the stitch to be made, and moving said pattern and thus clamped cloth pieces with respect to said sewing machine with the presser foot of said sewing machine in guiding contact with respect to said contour edge portion of said pattern, while simultaneously stitching said clamped cloth pieces by means of the needle of said sewing machine, wherein said cloth pieces include a garment piece, a pair of pinched tuck pieces, a pair of pocket lining pieces and a pocket flap; wherein said pattern includes a base plate having therein a longitudinal slot with a width greater than the distance between the stitches of the two edges of the opening of the desired pocket and with a length greater than the width of the desired pocket, said pattern further including a pair of clamping plates, one each of which is pivotally mounted on opposite sides of said slot about an axis parallel to the longitudinal dimension of said slot; wherein said steps of clamping, moving and stitching comprise: A. positioning said base plate on said garment piece with said slot aligned with that area of said garment piece wherein the opening of said pocket is desired; B. placing a first of said pinched tuck pieces on said garment piece adjacent one of the longitudinal edges of said slot; C. placing a first of said pocket lining pieces on said first pinched tuck piece; D. pivoting a first of said clamping plates toward said base plate to clamp therebetween a portion of said first pinched tuck piece and said first pocket lining piece; E. urging said first clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said first pocket lining piece and said first pinched tuck piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a first pocket stitch; F. placing a second of said pinched tuck pieces on said garment piece adjacent the oPposite of said longitudinal edges of said slot; G. placing said pocket flap on said second pinched tuck piece; H. placing a second of said pocket lining pieces on said pocket flap; I. pivoting a second of said clamping plates toward said base plate to clamp therebetween a portion of said second pinched tuck piece, said pocket flap and said second pocket lining piece; J. urging said second clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said second pocket lining piece, said pocket flap and said second pinched tuck piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a second pocket stitch; and K. cutting said garment piece between said first and second pocket stitches to form said pocket opening.
 1. A method for forming and assembling pockets on garments by stitching together superimposed cloth pieces by a known sewing machine, comprising clamping desired cloth pieces in a desired superimposed relationship by means of a clamping pattern having a contour edge portion corresponding to the desired shape of the stitch to be made, and moving said pattern and thus clamped cloth pieces with respect to said sewing machine with the presser foot of said sewing machine in guiding contact with respect to said contour edge portion of said pattern, while simultaneously stitching said clamped cloth pieces by means of the needle of said sewing machine, wherein said cloth pieces include a garment piece, a pair of pinched tuck pieces, a pair of pocket lining pieces and a pocket flap; wherein said pattern includes a base plate having therein a longitudinal slot with a width greater than the distance between the stitches of the two edges of the opening of the desired pocket and with a length greater than the width of the desired pocket, said pattern further including a pair of clamping plates, one each of which is pivotally mounted on opposite sides of said slot about an axis parallel to the longitudinal dimension of said slot; wherein said steps of clamping, moving and stitching comprise: A. positioning said base plate on said garment piece with said slot aligned with that area of said garment piece wherein the opening of said pocket is desired; B. placing a first of said pinched tuck pieces on said garment piece adjacent one of the longitudinal edges of said slot; C. placing a first of said pocket lining pieces on said first pinched tuck piece; D. pivoting a first of said clamping plates toward said base plate to clamp therebetween a portion of said first pinched tuck piece and said first pocket lining piece; E. urging said first clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said first pocket lining piece and said first pinched tuck piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a first pocket stitch; F. placing a second of said pinched tuck pieces on said garment piece adjacent the oPposite of said longitudinal edges of said slot; G. placing said pocket flap on said second pinched tuck piece; H. placing a second of said pocket lining pieces on said pocket flap; I. pivoting a second of said clamping plates toward said base plate to clamp therebetween a portion of said second pinched tuck piece, said pocket flap and said second pocket lining piece; J. urging said second clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said second pocket lining piece, said pocket flap and said second pinched tuck piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a second pocket stitch; and K. cutting said garment piece between said first and second pocket stitches to form said pocket opening.
 2. A method as claimed in claim 1, further comprising during said steps (B) and (F) clamping the longitudinal ends of said first and second pinched tuck pieces to said base plate.
 3. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein said steps (E) and (J) comprise positioning said presser foot on said respective pocket lining pieces, while urging the outer edges of said respective first and second clamping plates against a lateral edge of said presser foot.
 4. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein said steps (E) and (J) comprise positioning said presser foot on said respective first and second clamping plates, while urging a guide on the upper surface of said respective first and secnd clamping plates against a lateral edge of said presser foot.
 5. A method for forming and assembling pockets on garments by stitching together superimposed cloth pieces by a known sewing machine, comprising clamping desired cloth pieces in a desired superimposed relationship by means of a clamping pattern having a contour edge portion corresponding to the desired shape of the stitch to be made, and moving said pattern and thus clamped cloth pieces with respect to said sewing machine with the presser foot of said sewing machine in guiding contact with respect to said contour edge portion of said pattern, while simultaneously stitching said clamped cloth pieces by means of the needle of said sewing machine, wherein said cloth pieces include a garment piece, first and second pocket lining pieces and a fix flap piece, wherein said pattern includes a base plate having therein a longitudinal slot with a width greater than the distance between the stitches of the two edges of the opening of the desired pocket and with a length greater than the width of the desired pocket, said pattern further including a pair of clamping plates, one each of which is pivotally mounted on opposite sides of said slot about an axis parallel to the longitudinal dimension of said slot; wherein said steps of clamping, moving and stitching comprise: A. positioning said base plate on said garment piece with said slot aligned with that area of said garment piece wherein the opening of said pocket is desired; B. placing a first of said pocket lining pieces on said garment piece adjacent one of the longitudinal edges of said slot; C. pivoting a first of said clamping plates toward said base plate to clamp therebetween a portion of said first pocket lining piece; D. urging said first clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said first pocket lining piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a first pocket stitch; E. placing said fix flap piece on said garment piece adjacent the opposite of said longitudinal edges of said slot; F. placing a second of said pocket lining pieces on said fix flap piece; G. pivoting a second of said clamping plates toward said base plate to clamp therebetween a portion of said fix flap piece and said second pocket lining piece; H. urging said second clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said fix flap piece and said second pocket lining piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a second pocket stitch; and I. cutting said garment piece between said first and second pOcket stitches to form said pocket opening.
 6. A method as claimed in claim 5, further comprising during said steps (B) and (E) clamping the longitudinal ends of, respectively, said first pocket lining piece and said fix flap piece to said base plate.
 7. A method as claimed in claim 5, wherein said steps (D) and (H) comprise positioning said presser foot on said respective pocket lining pieces, while urging the outer edges of said respective first and second clamping plates against a lateral edge of said presser foot.
 8. A method as claimed in claim 5, wherein said steps (D) and (H) comprise positioning said presser foot on said respective first and second clamping plates, while urging a guide on the upper surface of said respective first and second clamping plates against a lateral edge of said presser foot.
 9. A method for forming and assembling pockets on garments by stitching together superimposed cloth pieces by a known sewing machine, comprising clamping desired cloth pieces in a desired superimposed relationship by means of a clamping pattern having a contour edge portion corresponding to the desired shape of the stitch to be made, and moving said pattern and thus clamped cloth pieces with respect to said sewing machine with the presser foot of said sewing machine in guiding contact with respect to said contour edge portion of said pattern, while simultaneously stitching said clamped cloth pieces by means of the needle of said sewing machine, wherein said cloth pieces include a garment piece, first and second pinched tuck pieces, first and second zipper fastener pieces and first and second pocket lining pieces; wherein said pattern includes a base plate having therein a longitudinal slot with a width greater than the distance between the stitches of the two edges of the opening of the desired pocket and with a length greater than the width of the desired pocket, said pattern further including a pair of clamping plates, one each of which is pivotally mounted on opposite sides of said slot about an axis parallel to the longitudinal dimension of said slot; wherein said steps of clamping, moving said stitching comprise: A. positioning said base plate on said garment piece with said slot aligned with that area of said garment piece wherein the opening of said pocket is desired; B. placing a first of said pinched tuck pieces on said garment piece adjacent one of the longitudinal edges of said slot and on said longitudinal edge; C. placing a first of said zipper fastener pieces on said first pinched tuck piece; D. placing a first of said pocket lining pieces on said first zipper fastener piece; E. pivoting a first of said clamping plates toward said garment piece to clamp therebetween a portion of said first pinched tuck piece, said first zipper fastener piece and said first pocket lining piece; F. urging said first clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said first pinched tuck piece, said first zipper fastener piece and said first pocket lining piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a first pocket stitch; G. placing a second of said pinched tuck pieces on said garment piece adjacent the opposite of said longitudinal edges of said slot and on said opposite longitudinal edge; H. placing a second of said zipper fastener pieces on said pinched tuck piece; I. placing a second of said pocket lining pieces on said second zipper fastener piece; J. pivoting a second of said clamping plates toward said garment piece to clamp therebetween a portion of said second pinched tuck piece, said second zipper fastener piece and said second pocket lining piece; K. urging said second clamping plate against said presser foot and stitching said second pinched tuck piece, said second zipper fastener piece and said second pocket lining piece to said garment piece, thereby forming a second pocket stitch; and L. cutting said garment piece between said first and second pockEt stitches to form said pocket opening.
 10. A method as claimed in claim 9 further comprising during said steps (B) and (G) clamping the longitudinal edges of said first and second pinched tuck pieces to said base plate.
 11. A method as claimed in claim 9, wherein said steps (F) and (K) comprise positioning said presser foot on said respective lining pieces, while urging the inner edges of said respective first and second clamping plates against a lateral edge of said presser foot. 